Posted: July 2025
There’s a small hillside vineyard on the Sonoma Coast that defies convention. Surrounded by some of the most prestigious Pinot Noir plantings in California, this plot grows something entirely different—a resilient French-American hybrid grape called Baco Noir. This vineyard has become the heart of North American Press and the beginning of my journey to advocate for hybrid grapes in California.
Finding “The Rebel”
In 2019, I learned about a unique vineyard in Sebastopol planted in the 1960s by Italian immigrant Domenico Callegari. Unlike his neighbors who were planting European varieties, Callegari chose Baco Noir—a cross between the European Folle Blanche and the native American Vitis riparia. When I heard the vineyard needed someone to take over farming, something clicked. Despite having spent almost a decade making prestigious Pinot Noir at Radio-Coteau, I was ready for a new challenge.
What I discovered at this vineyard changed everything I thought I knew about viticulture and winemaking.
The Revelation
The first time I walked through these vines, I noticed something remarkable: while neighboring vineyards were constantly battling powdery mildew with fungicide sprays, these 60-year-old Baco Noir vines were thriving without any chemical intervention whatsoever.
This wasn’t just a curiosity—it was a revelation.
Here in the fog belt of the Sonoma Coast, where humidity creates perfect conditions for mildew, these hybrid vines had evolved natural resistance. I had stumbled upon a working example of what sustainable viticulture could look like: vines adapted to their environment rather than forcing the environment to adapt to the vines.
The Wine Speaks
But would the wine be any good? The stigma against hybrid grapes runs deep in California wine culture. When I first told colleagues about my plans to make Baco Noir, I received skeptical looks and raised eyebrows. Hybrids had a reputation for making “foxy” wines—a term used to describe musky flavors sometimes found in some American grapes (but not Baco Noir).
What I found instead was a wine with beautiful structure, bright acidity, and complex flavors that reminded me of iron, blackberry, and cola. It wasn’t trying to be Pinot Noir—it was confidently its own thing. I named this wine “The Rebel” as a nod to Callegari’s nonconformist spirit and my own leap of faith.
Tasting “The Rebel”: Wine Characteristics
“The Rebel” Baco Noir is a medium-bodied red wine that offers a unique tasting experience distinct from traditional California reds. The wine showcases:
Aroma Profile: Fresh black mulberries, candied violets, dark cherry, with subtle evergreen aromatics and roasted hazelnuts
Flavor Profile: Sanguine and red fruits at mid-palate, including morello cherries, blackberry, and raspberry, with notes of iron, tobacco, and black pepper spice that builds with air
Structure: Known for its radical acidity that makes it exceptionally food-friendly. The wine enters bright on the palate, transitions to a smooth, red-fruited mid-palate with elegant tannins, and finishes with impressive length and persistence
Body & Style: Medium-weight with a luscious yet structured mouthfeel. The interplay of rich fruit and lively acidity creates a wine that’s both rustic and refined—feminine yet powerful
Aging Potential: The wine’s acidity and overall energy give it excellent aging potential, developing complexity over 5-10 years
Perfect Food Pairings for “The Rebel”
The bright acidity and medium body of “The Rebel” Baco Noir make it exceptionally versatile at the table. This is a wine that truly shines with food:
Ideal Pairings:
- Grilled and roasted meats: Lamb chops, herb-crusted rack of lamb, grilled tri-tip, or pork tenderloin
- Holiday fare: Roasted turkey, or braised duck legs.
- Barbecue: Smoked brisket, ribs, or pulled pork—the acidity cuts through rich, fatty meats beautifully
- Charcuterie and cured meats: Salumi, prosciutto, pâté
- Hearty pastas: Bolognese, mushroom ragu.
- Aged cheeses: Manchego, aged cheddar, Comté, or Gruyère
- Mushroom dishes: Wild mushroom risotto or portobello steaks
Serving Suggestions: Best served with just an ever-so-slight chill (around 60-65°F) to highlight its fresh, vibrant character.
The wine’s mouth-watering acidity and rustic elegance make it particularly suitable for backyard cookouts and holiday gatherings where rich, flavorful dishes are the centerpiece.
Why This Matters
Working with this vineyard has taught me something profound: our understanding of what makes “fine wine” is unnecessarily narrow. By limiting ourselves to European grape varieties, we’ve closed ourselves off to the incredible diversity and resilience of our continent’s native grape species and their hybrids.
The environmental implications are equally significant. These vines:
-Require no fungicides or pesticides
-Are dry-farmed (no irrigation)
-Need fewer tractor passes, reducing carbon emissions
-Create safer working conditions for vineyard workers
As climate change intensifies, causing more erratic weather patterns and increasing disease pressure, these resilient varieties offer a path forward that doesn’t rely on chemical solutions.
Sustainability in Every Bottle
“The Rebel” represents more than just a unique flavor profile—it’s a model for sustainable California winemaking:
Climate Resilient: Natural resistance to fog-related diseases and adaptability to variable weather
Beyond Organic: Farmed completely by hand with no tractor work
No Spray: Zero fungicides, herbicides, or any other chemicals.
Dry Farmed: No irrigation needed
Low Intervention Winemaking: Wild yeast fermentation, minimal sulfites (30ppm post-MLF), unfined and unfiltered
Looking Forward
The journey of “The Rebel” is just the beginning. At North American Press, we’re now working with over 50 different hybrid varieties across multiple vineyards, testing which ones thrive in California’s diverse microclimates without chemical intervention.
I believe these varieties represent not just a sustainable future for California wine, but also a return to an authentic American wine identity—one that embraces the unique qualities of grapes that have evolved on this continent.
Next time you reach for a bottle to pair with lamb, grilled meats, or your holiday feast, consider trying something outside the familiar European varieties. “The Rebel” offers not just new flavors but supports a more sustainable approach to winemaking—proving that environmentally conscious choices don’t require sacrificing quality or food-pairing versatility.
Until next time,
Matt Niess